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First light at the break
Kai’s surf journal begins before the first wave: the light at the beach, a board on the roof, the small decisions about whether to enter the water at all. It is a fictional portrait of a life organised partly around the sea.
Surfing has a material story as well as a sporting one. A shaping-room film can show the work inside a board. A beach-care note can ask what happens to the places people love when more people come to enjoy them.